Taqueria Los Ocampo

The best way to judge a Mexican restaurant is by its tacos. Are the tortillas small, pliable, and doubled up? Is there a harmonious amount of cilantro and onion? Enough limes? How’s the salsa? If a place passes the taco test, you can pretty much order anything else with reckless abandon. Los…More >>

New York

Tulcingo Del Valle

At Tulcingo Del Valle, stick to the chalkboard specials for such southern Mexican treats as chicken-mole pipian, the boiled bird swimming in a thick, khaki-green pumpkin-seed sauce. More >>

Tulcingo Del Valle in New York

Orange County

La Perla Tapatia

Most Mexican restaurants stick to gabacho favorites at the exclusion of regional specialties, or focus on a state cuisine and ignore enchiladas and other Southwest standards as if they were the Minuteman Project. Striking a happy medium is La Habra’s La Perla Tapatia, a dive where the only…More >>

San Francisco

La Oaxaqueña

This tiny storefront has a few Formica-topped tables in blue and green with wooden chairs, four counter seats, and lots of Oaxacan crafts (shawls, dresses, paintings, pottery) adorning its walls and shelves. You can get better soft tacos at any taqueria or truck in the neighborhood, so…More >>

St. Louis

Taqueria los Tarascos

What’s the easiest way to find great Mexican food in St. Louis? Well, first thing you do is head for the airport. That’s not a punch line. Woodson Terrace, the small municipality located immediately south of Lambert Field — seriously: the runways are a brisk walk to the north — is…More >>

Salvador Zavala delivers a plate of oysters on the half shell at Taqueria los Tarascos.

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